Feb 27, 2017: Elisabeth King reports on this week's business news

Chanel to launch first pillar fragrance in 15 years, global aromatherapy market tipped to reach $US8 billion, Gillette slashes cost of razors by 20 per cent, and Amazon's top-selling beauty products. 

Chanel to launch first pillar fragrance in 15 years
In 2013 Chanel announced that Olivier Polge would succeed his father Jacques as its in-house nose. For two years, the talented perfumer worked alongside Polge senior and Christopher Sheldrake before becoming only the fourth man to hold the title since 1921. Following in the footsteps of Ernest Beaux, the creator of Chanel No 5, Henri Robert and his illustrious forebear, rumours have been swirling for two years that one of Olivier's first projects would be the first new Chanel pillar fragrance since Chance. 

Not that Olivier has been idle. Since 2015, he has created two fragrances for the Les Exclusifs lineup - Misia and Boy Chanel - and the fifth interpretation of No 5 – Chanel No 5 L'Eau – late last year. Prior to joining Chanel, Olivier was a prolific producer of hits for other brands during his 15 year stint at International Flavors & Fragrances, including Lancome La Vie Est Belle, Dior Homme, Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb, Balenciaga Paris and Paco Rabanne Invictus. 

Chanel No 5 L'Eau has grown global sales of the iconic fragrance by approximately 20 per cent over the past six months. Chanel will also be chasing Millennials with its new pillar fragrance simply called Gabrielle - Coco Chanel's real first name. Billed as an abstract floral, the French prestige brand released the first of four films on Inside Chanel last week under the title – Gabrielle, a Rebel at Heart. 

Taking its cue from the fashion legend's early years, the new fragrance will debut globally in the Northern Hemisphere autumn. The price point will 20 per cent higher than the current fragrances in the Chanel stable. A Gabrielle handbag will also debut at the same time as the new scent. According to Christine Dagousset, Global President Chanel Fragrance and Beauty, the launch of the new pillar fragrance will further consolidate Chanel's leadership in perfumes worldwide. 

Global aromatherapy market tipped to reach $US8 billion
Soothing nerves and tension has always been big business. Many early 20th century tonic drinks contained then-legal drugs like cocaine for those in search of  an instant pep-up. Aromatherapy doesn't provide that big of a rush, but people from all cultures believe in the therapeutic use of plant-based essential oils, says Future Market Insights. 

Over the next decade, says the researcher, awareness of the healing benefits of aromatherapy is on track to become more mainstream. By the end of 2026, the global aromatherapy market is expected to reach $US8 billion a year. Medical centres are increasingly providing therapeutic treatments based on aromatherapy to alleviate anxiety and depression, notes Future Market Insights. But a lot of the 7.7 per cent growth will also come from the growing tendency to use aromatherapy solutions to boost cognitive performance, reduce pain and improve body functions such as blood circulation.

Gillette slashes cost of razors by 20 per cent
Fittingly, Gillette invented the phenomenon of razor-and-blade marketing which has flowed on to many other industries. Basically, it involves selling the basic tool for a cheap price and charging a lot for replacement items. Razor blade cartridges for systems razors like Gillette's Mach 3 and Schick's Quattro have become the most shop-lifted items in the world because of their high cost in relation to the basic razor.

As the dominant player in the global shaving market, Gillette ranks number 28 on Forbes magazine's World's Most Valuable Brands with a value of $US20.2 billion. But in the face of rising competition, parent company Procter & Gamble has announced it will reduce prices on some Gillette shave products by up to 20 per cent. A tactic analysts have been recommending for some years.

The multinational giant is nervously looking over its corporate shoulder, following Unilever's $US1 billion purchase of The Dollar Shave Club. Other lower-cost rivals have also dented sales. In the all-important American market alone, Gillette's market share has dipped from 71 per cent to 59 per cent over the past few years. The company has not indicated whether its best-selling women's razors will be included in the price drop. 

Amazon's top-selling beauty products
Retailing giant Amazon will launch its Australian operations in September and local retailers are running scared. They should be, says Nielsen. The researcher has revealed that Amazon's US site converts one in two Aussie visitors into sales. While 75 per cent of Australians surveyed said they are interested in Amazon Australia and 56 per cent said they are likely to buy from the Australian site when it debuts.

Amazon Australia will have a strong slant towards younger customers and male shoppers. The online behemoth sells a vast array of makeup, skincare and haircare products on its US site. Last week, it released a list of its top 25 best-selling beauty products (in alphabetical order) and there's hardly a prestige brand in sight. From this lineup, pharmacy chains and supermarkets have the most to fear from Amazon's arrival where personal care and beauty are concerned.

Revlon also revealed details of its first major marketing promotion since the Arden buyout. As part of the Love Project campaign, the company is using Amazon to reach out to Millennials by stamping its name on 10 million Amazon shipping boxes in the US.

  1. Aquaphor Healing Ointment
  2. Aveeno Daily Moisturizing Lotion
  3. Eau Thermale Avene Thermal Spring Water Spray
  4. Bio-Oil
  5. Blinc Mascara
  6. Burt's Bees 100% Natural Moisturizing Lip Balm
  7. CHI Original Pro 1"Ceramic Ionic Tourmaline Hair Straightener
  8. CeraVe Moisturizing Cream
  9. Crest 3D White Professional Effects White Strips
  10. Dove Beauty Bar - Sensitive
  11. La Roche-Posay Anthelios 60 Ultra-Light Facial Sunscreen Fluid
  12. L'Occitane Shea Butter hand Cream
  13. Mario Badescu Facial Spray with Aloe
  14. Mario Badescu Drying Lotion
  15. Neutrogena Ultra-Sheer Dry Touch Sunscreen SPF45
  16. Neutrogena Makeup Remover Cleansing Towelettes
  17. Nexcare Acne Absorbing Colour
  18. NYX Cosmetics makeup Setting Spray
  19. Oribe Dry Texturizing Spray
  20. Proactiv 3-Step Acne Treatment Starter Kit
  21. Pura d'Or Anti-Hair Loss Organic Argan Oil Shampoo
  22. Simple Cleansing Facial Wipes
  23. St Tropez Self Tan Bronzing Mousse
  24. Stila Stay All Day Waterproof Liquid Eyeliner
  25. Wunderbrow Brow Gel in Brunette. 

Snippets from the wires

  • Growth is on steroids in the Middle Eastern beauty market. According to Euromonitor International, sales in the Gulf countries alone rose 10 per cent in 2016 to $US9.3 billion.
  • Henkel, the maker of Schwarzkopf, enjoyed record sales in 2016. For the first time, the German multinational achieved an operating profit of 3 billion euros ($AU4.13 billion).
  • Buyouts can benefit both parties. Woolworths, the South African owners of David Jones, have announced a plan to implement the Australian prestige department store strategies to double beauty sales in its home market.
  • Longchamp, the prestige French accessories and bag maker, has signed a deal with US eyewear maker Marchon. The first glasses and shades from the manufacturer of the popular Le Pliage carry bags will debut in the Northern Hemisphere summer in the brand's 300 boutiques worldwide and selected retailers.