Jul 06: Elisabeth King reports on this week's business news

Unilever to acquire Murad, double digit growth for ALDI's Lacura brand, Huffington Post fails to turn a profit, and Liberty of London goes international.

Unilever to acquire Murad
As P&G prepares to announce the  final details of its sell-off of several prestige beauty and fragrance brands, rival multinational Unilever is carving out a new empire in the premium sector. Since March, the Anglo-Dutch giant has bought the REN, Kate Somerville and Dermalogica skincare brands. In its fourth major acquisition in as many months, Unilever has signed an agreement to buy the US-based Murad brand, a leader in upmarket clinical skincare. 

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Founded in 1989 by Dr Howard Murad, the acclaimed dermatologist and UCLA professor, the highly respected brand is often touted as the first modern doctor brand. Stocked by Sephora, Ulta and Nordstrom in the US, Murad is mainly sold online in Australia and New Zealand. With a turnover of US$115 million in 2014, the brand will become part of Unilever's prestige division, exclusively composed of select distribution and premium-priced brands. 

According to Paul Polman, CEO of Unilever: "As an expert doctor brand, Murad offers products in a differentiated, clinical and holistic well-being segment. It has a loyal following that gives it excellent potential for expansion and wonderfully complements the brands recently acquired". Even though Murad is already present in China and the UAE, two of the fastest-growing regions for premium skincare, there's plenty of scope for accelerated growth and also in Western Europe. 

Double digit growth for ALDI's Lacura brand
Less than a decade ago, ALDI's private label Lacura skincare and makeup brand consisted of only a few entry level items. Today, you can buy caviar-based moisturisers and some of the best value anti-ageing serums in the country. Similar to breakthrough launches from , Lacura products frequently make headlines in the Daily Mail for their ability to out-perform pricier counterparts. TV shows such as Channel 9's A Current Affair and consumer watchdog Choice magazine routinely echo the same results. 

Australian women are listening says Nielsen. The researcher predicts that the Australian grocery market will grow by a further $6.2 billion over the next five years with half the growth coming from private label brands. ALDI's Lacura brand is "breaking all the rules with a presence in 16 per cent of all households across the Eastern seaboard" reports the researcher. Sales are growing at the rate of 23 per cent year-on-year, says Nielsen, as older and younger couples without children increasingly become a larger focus of supermarket growth targets. 

Huffington Post fails to turn a profit
That's not good news for digital media start-ups. Although the 10 year-old site attracts 200 million unique visitors a month and generated US$146 million in revenues in 2014, it failed to turn a profit reports The New York Times. HuffPo's official stance is that the situation is only temporary and will be fixed as it continues to attract more readers but the core fact remains that it relies almost solely on digital advertising. 

While digital advertising is increasing in leaps and bounds, the lion's share goes to social media and technology such as Google and Facebook. Faced with an infinite supply of new digital start-ups, many brands are negotiating lower rates for digital display ads. Native advertising, video, e-commerce and events or a combination of two or all of them are all forms of potential revenue but most digital publishers still rely on advertising. Unlike print media,  income from subscriptions is for the most part non-existent. As more and more new entrants set up shop, simply following traditional media in the digital space will mean offering a real point-of-difference. 

Liberty of London goes international
Founded in 1875, Liberty of London with its Arts and Crafts and Art Nouveau connections was long the most upper crust of UK department stores. When  the management agreed to a fly-on-the-wall reality TV series, one critic predicted that the store's reputation could be in rags. Not so, according to Ed Burstell, Liberty's American MD who has revitalised the pukka store with new designers and creative collaborations. Within a month of the first series of the Channel 4 production (shown on the LifeStyle Channel in Australia) making its debut, sales rose 7 per cent and annual visitor numbers were up 5 per cent. Tourists and younger fashionistas drawn by the TV show accounted for the bulk of increased visits. 

Liberty has announced it will expand on its successful collaborations with Nike, (the Give Me Liberty of London Collection from 2010) and Saks Fifth Avenue with more tie-ups. Later this month, US fashion retailer Nordstrom will install six pop-up shops showcasing Liberty's homewares in  key locations such as New York, San Francisco, Washington and Seattle. While Italy's La Rinascente department store chain has a pop-up planned for its landmark Milan store in the third quarter to introduce locals and tourists to Liberty handbags and accessories. 

Snippets from the wires
• Affordable makeup brands such as BYS and ulta3 nail polishes have enjoyed spectacular success in Australia. UK value retailer, Poundworld, launched its private label brand - Miss Beauty London - in mid-June and many stores sold out of the new range within one week. There are 100 SKUs in the lineup and Pascalle, the manufacturer of the $2 products, has announced it will increase production by 400,000 units per month. 
• Japanese giant Suntory, better known for its whisky, has launched a beer containing collagen which promises to make drinkers look younger and prettier. An unsurprising development says Transparency Market Research. Japan leads the way in the nutricosmetics market in Asia/Pacific, where women strongly believe that beauty supplements, drinks and pills can enhance skin, nails and hair. By 2017, Japan will control, 54.8 per cent of the APAC "inner beauty" market says the researcher. 
• Following the Chinese government's reduction on import duties for skincare, L'Oréal Paris, and AmorePacific slashed their prices in China. has also announced it will cut its RRPs by up to 23 per cent. 
• As we reported recently, Indonesia - with a population of 250 million - is on track to become one of the world's top 10 beauty markets within the next five years. has partnered with the Aura Beaute Group to form a joint venture - PT Shiseido Professional - with the Japanese giant as the major stakeholder. The new company will import, market and distribute Shiseido's professional skincare products in Australia's nearest Asian neighbour. 
• 's ready-to-wear collections are available in upmarket New York retailers such as Bergdorf Goodman. But his fabulous couture fashions are only sold in Paris and Beirut. After a year-long search, Saab has signed a lease on a Madison Avenue location, formerly a boutique. 
• Men have been indulging in manicure and pedicures for decades but there's been a huge upsurge in demand over the past decade. Male-dedicated spas and clinics in the US and Australia do a brisk trade in caring for the hands and feet of  regular clients. In the US, Hollywood screenwriter Michael Elliott launched the Hammer and Nails Hand & Foot Grooming Shop in LA. The set-up of low lighting, over-sized leather chairs, personal TVs and expensive headphones has been so successful that Elliott is offering Hammer and Nails franchises in over 40 states. 
• PDC Brands, a major player in the US mass fragrance and personal care market, posted annual sales of US$400 million in 2014. The company owns Dr Teal's - imported by Chemcorp in Australia - the number one bath care brand in the US, Calgon and BOD Man, America's top-selling mass fragrance for men. Group sales are expected to soar with the recent buy-outs of two best-selling brands from Advance Beauty - Bodycology, the top-selling specialty bath brand in the US, and Cantu, the fastest-growing multi-cultural haircare brand.