Just like every girl dreams of having her own superhero; every skincare brand dreams of having a super powerful hero ingredient. Each year brands continue to strive for the latest and greatest innovations and ingredients to turn the beauty industry on its head and turn back time for the skin. This year saw a host of new anti-ageing products launched on to the market, with each brand bringing an interesting ingredient or technology to the table. We take a look at 10 innovations that really got the bd team talking …
Okuru
Used by the likes of Emma Thompson, Kate Winslet and Rachel Griffiths, lapurete has discovered the natural alternative to Botox – Okuru. This is a plant grown in Western Africa that French scientists recently discovered has seeds that contain a combination of peptides that minimise expression lines in a similar way to Botox. The best bit? Okuru is all natural and can be applied topically so there is no need to have Botulinum Toxum injected into your face.
Swiss apple
The key ingredient in both the Renovage range and Dr. LeWinn's Synergise range launched this year is plant stem cells from the Swiss apple. The Swiss apple stem cells have regenerative properties that help protect the skin against harmful environmental influences and support the repair function of your skin to reduce signs of ageing. Dr LeWinn’s product development manager Teresa Hryniewiecka reveals, the stem cells work in synergy with skin cells, protecting and regenerating them. They can protect the longevity of our skin cells and signs of ageing can be delayed or even reversed.”
Matki lentil
This year saw AUM launch four new products onto the market. All of them include Marine Complex, which consists of two Tasmanian seaweeds – bull kelp and sea lettuce – that have an active component called Fucoidans that inhibits the function of skin-degrading enzymes. While this is impressive, the ingredient that has grabbed our attention is the matki lentil found in the Line Minimising Cream. With the anti-ageing benefits of vitamin A, the matki lentil stimulates cellular renewal and boosts collagen synthesis. It has been found to reduce the depth of wrinkles by almost 10 per cent – a result similar to that of retinol.
Snap-8
With a range of quality peptides and antioxidants used in O Cosmedics’ patented V8 Peptide Complex, the one we’re most impressed with is the Snap-8 peptide. This is a new octapeptide that is around 30 per cent more effective than its parent peptide Argireline. Snap-8 blocks the chemicals that cause muscle contractions, thus reducing the depth of wrinkles caused by facial expressions.
Swiss snow algae
this year released its Cellular Power Infusion, with president Lynne Florio revealing, we’ve bottled a cosmetic power surge that recharges your skin’s energy as never before possible, and more energy means vibrant, illuminated skin.” Mitochondria are like cell power stations that produce cellular energy. Energy supply by mitochondria declines as people get older due to accumulated damage over time. This is where the La Prairie hero ingredient Swiss snow algae comes in. This ingredient provides a natural shield of defence to protect mitochondria and its DNA from environmental stress and attack by free radicals.
Pitera
After scientists noticed the youthful hands of workers at a remote Saki brewery in Japan, they began research which led to the development of ’s hero ingredient Pitera. Pitera is a yeast ferment filtrate produced during the fermentation process that contains more than 50 essential skin nutrients. The formula uses vitamins, amino acids, minerals and organic acids to mimic the natural moisturising function of the skin. SK-II’s Facial Treatment Essence has the highest level of Pitera in the entire range, with it making up 90 per cent of the product.
CoQ10
’s Age Proof CoQ10 Eye Recovery Concentrate uses a high concentrate of co-enzyme Q10. With CoQ10 stimulating collagen production and strengthening and revitalising skin cells, this is a handy ingredient to keep your eye out for. CoQ10 is also featured in NIVEA Visage's Anti-wrinkle Q10 Plus range and the Avalon Organics CoQ10 range.
Huni XA
Manuka honey is renowned for its anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory and healing properties. After a German research team found the compound behind Manuka honey’s anti-microbial properties, Comvita set out to discover the specific benefits of this type of honey. Using their latest research, the company has developed Huni XA, a blend of manuka honey that helps combat inflammation and slow the visible signs of ageing.
Glycolic acid
Derived from sugar cane, glycolic acid is often used in cosmetics because of its small molecule structure, easy penetration into the skin and water binding properties. While it’s not a new ingredient, it’s the primary alpha hydroxy acid used in ’s Liquid Gold products. Key benefits of this ingredient include encouraging collagen production, restoring luminosity and brightness, improving tone and elasticity and exfoliating the surface layer.
Edelweiss
A hero ingredient in the Cosmeceutical skincare range is the Distinctive Phytostem Edelweiss. Edelweiss is found in mountain ranges from the Pyrenees to the Himalayas Alps and has developed many defensive mechanisms to survive these extreme climatic and environmental conditions (for example, temperature, altitude, solar radiation and drought.) Distinctive Phytostem Edelweiss helps deliver these defensive properties to the skin – including the potential to regenerate tissue, protect, nurture and heal damage cells. It works to replenish, awaken and regenerate the skin to fight the signs of ageing.
Honourable mentions:
– Marine Collagen
Palmer's – Multi Lamellar Emulsion
– Kombucha
– Whey protein
– Coffee Berry
Sisley Paris – Oat extract
Olay – Amino peptide
Ella Baché – Wheat germ
Imedeen – Biomarine complex
Aveeno Active Naturals – Soy bean
EmerginC Protocell – Swiss Apple