A good skincare routine has far surpassed a simple soap and water coupling. Thanks largely to influence from Asia-Pacific neighbour Korea and its population of skincare devotees, a new focus on complexions has emerged within Australia’s sunburnt shores. Now with cleansing routines down pat, effective additions to regimens have been embraced by the skincare community eager to sophisticate their routine. The most prominent introductions? A penchant for mists and masks.
A touch of the Orient
The movement towards a sophisticated routine – one with personalised additions – is one beauty experts are attributing directly to the Asian approach to skincare. Euromonitor explains of the ‘Asian-ification’ of skincare: “The rise in popularity and availability of Asian and more specifically South Korean beauty has helped innovation adopt a more complex approach. South Korean brands, such as Hera and Etude House are well-known for their multi-step skincare portfolios.”
According to MADARA founder Lotte Tisenkopfa-Iltnere, skincare extras such as mists and masks reflect a more advanced understanding of skin (one adopted early on by Asian nations). “I think that the rise of such product groups as masks and mists indicate that consumers become smarter about skincare, textures and ingredients, and are ready to invest their time and resources into more specialised skincare routines,” she says.
Alone in the mist
For A’kin botanical chemist Annabelle Personeni, the day of the toner is done, helping bring the mist into focus. “Already this year, a number of brands have mists in their ranges. To me, it's the modern version of the toner. A lot more people are on the go all the time and mists are much more flexible and convenient to keep in your bag to refresh your skin, reinject some moisture or antioxidants to project the skin in the middle of the day. It's a trend that started in 2016 and it's likely to continue,” she says.
Aveda national spa educator Kristy Hines says the booming mist trend is nothing new, and its convenience makes it unlikely to budge anytime soon. “Mists have been hugely popular over the last decade – I don't see this trend changing. I think that Australians love the convenience of a skincare step in a spray for a quick burst of hydration on their skin,” she says.
As to what kind of mists will be gaining momentum, Personeni believes: “At the moment the majority of the mists on the market are rose mists, so there is definitely an opportunity for brands to diversify their offerings in the skin mist category in the future as consumers will grow tired of [the] rose scent. It'll be interesting to see brands explore more approaches to skin mists to bring a twist to the modern toner.” But mists are also developing into products that produce more than hydration, again thanks to an interest spearheaded by the Asian consumer. Says Antipodes founder Elizabeth Barbalich: “[Mists will be a trend of 2017] as more Chinese consumers discover this product. Mists are now branching into performance-oriented products, [such as] liquid serums.”
A moment of luxury
For Tisenkopfa-Iltnere, a mist is not only beneficial to the skin, but a small luxury for a busy lifestyle. “Face mists are spa-in-bottle, providing refreshment, hydration and antioxidant functionalities any time of the day. I see mists as [a] fusion of facial toners and serums in a super handy and carry-with-you packaging. Plus, spritzing offers also a very sensual experience – it is a moment of magic, a moment of recreation.
“The fact that we work long hours, live urban and hectic lifestyle makes mists have their moment now. There is no time to refresh at home, so mists combine both the physical and emotional refreshment during a busy day,” Tisenkopfa-Iltnere expands.
A masked crusader
Face masks in particular are seeing a resurgence. Euromonitor believes this is directly associated with the Asian-ification of the Australian skincare market. The site explains: “Asia Pacific remains the most important region in both value terms and as the key origin for skincare trends. The introduction of novel products such as essence and emulsion, the revival of skincare categories such as face masks, and the expansion of Asian brands to the West are shifting the balance between East and West.”
The face mask has never quite fallen out of favour but the new incarnate of the traditional beauty remedy is slightly more advanced than its ancestor. For Hines, masks have risen in popularity alongside a resurgence in treatments, particularly those at-home. She says of the 2017 trend: “It’s all about results through serums and masques – guests want to get high-impact results without the fuss. Serums give them this in one quick easy product. Masks are appealing as it enables the user to be able to give themselves regular skin treatments at home, either to support their professional skin treatments or as a more cost-effective/time-effective alternative to professional visits.”
Personeni agrees: “They also offer almost a spa-at-home approach. Consumers are looking more and more for products that offer an extra boost of efficacy and face masks provide this.”
Instant gratification
The Jojoba Company’s Vicki Engsall believes consumers are finally beginning to understand the noticeable difference a mask can make to skin. “Masks are all over social media. Masks are definitely making a comeback. People are realising that they are an important treatment for the face and they really make a difference to skin.” Tisenkopfa-Iltnere agrees: “I am a huge believer in deep cleansers – masks and exfoliators. They are the true difference-makers in your skincare regimen. Masks and exfoliators provide immediate effects – they instantly smooth and brighten the skin, enhancing the hydration and look. People want to have visible and quick results from the products.”
The beauty of the modern mask is that it is specifically focused on alleviating different styles of skincare complaints. Ingredients such as clay continue to be used to detoxify (such as L’Oréal’s Pure Clay Mask), to turmeric for brightening (Aveda’s Tulasara Masque), and manuka honey for antibacterial properties. Continues Engsall: “There are so many targeted masks around for all different purposes and people are beginning to take the time to treat themselves to a mask.” Hines agrees: “Masks definitely have been out of fashion for sometime as most people think they were too time consuming. Product companies have heard this and now there are many masks that are developed as leave-on products, giving consumers the benefits of a mask without the traditional directions for use.”
But most importantly for 2017 the rise in popularity of the cloth mask will also continue to prosper – another Asian import that is growing in trajectory thanks to blurring country boundaries and increased travel. Says Barbalich: “Face masks of the cloth variety are very popular in Asia and now these new millennial consumers are travelling more they are discovering other types of masks.” Concludes Personeni: “This is huge in Asia. Sheet masks started in Korea and have spread everywhere.”
