If the lion is the king of the jungle, the rose is definitely the queen of the garden. Picking up kudos long before Juliet told Romeo "A rose by any other name would smell as sweet", there really is no flower that comes close to comparison. But it’s not just its intoxicating scent that sees this love bud a favourite with the beauty world, with the rose hosting a list of skin and hair benefits as long as your arm.
But why the sudden interest in this flower? Hasn't the rose been around since the dawn of time? That may be true, but lately we've begun seeing this floral powerhouse creeping its way back onto the beauty scene in a big way. To find out why this is, BEAUTYDIRECTORY is taking a look at the history of the rose, why it's undergoing a resurgence, and where the future of this flower is taking us.
A history lesson on the rose
Used in cosmetics and medicine for centuries, the rose is no new ingredient. In fact, roses are one of the earliest recorded ingredients for beauty and cosmetic treatments, with fossil evidence showing they have been around for 35 million years. Ancient Egyptians are believed to have boiled down roses to make cosmetic and healing balms and to clean themselves, while the ancient Greeks developed the first rose-based make-up in the 8th century by steeping rose petals in olive oil. Not to be outdone by the Egyptians and Greeks, the Romans next began using rose water as a remedy for more than 30 ailments. In the 11th century, Persian alchemist Avicenna discovered how to steam-distil rose oil to soothe, calm and moisturise the skin. Roses were even considered a legal tender by European nobility in the 17th century.
Fast forward to 2016, and the rose is very much still going strong. The only difference is these days, technology has seen the customer receive its benefits via more efficacious methods. “The extraction process of flowers and herbs has come a long way, we now have supercritical extraction. Also we have stem cell extracts that give us a more potent end product and therefore it has much more benefit on the skin,” reveals
“Several years ago, plant cell culture technology started being used in the cosmetic industry. [Plant cell culture technology is the growth and reproduction of plants, plant tissues and/or plant cells in a controlled environment.] Besides sustainability, there are also other advantages [with this technology] compared to traditional plant raw materials. The use of plant cell cultures allows a controlled production.”
The resurgence
While the rose has long been used for its beauty benefits, the last few years has really seen it come into its own. Consumers’ desire for all things natural has seen brands begin to incorporate rose in an increasing number of products – with some brands devoting entire new ranges to this star ingredient. “Rose is the new black, it is an eternal flower that will always be in fashion,” explains Kapetanakis.
Continuing, she reveals: “Rose is the big natural beauty ingredient for 2016. At Manhattan's first Indie Beauty Expo, an event ‘devoted to independent beauty brands and the people who love them’, the number of rose-infused products was phenomenal. From rose-infused soaps to rubs to face washes, three of the rose frontrunners included rosehip oil, palmarosa oil, and Bulgarian rose oil.”
Another reason the rose has returned to centre stage comes off the back of the growing popularity of rosehip oil, with this product the Justin Bieber of the beauty world (i.e. everyone wants a piece of the action). “I think 23 years ago, nobody really talked or knew about rosehip oil. Now there are hundreds of skincare brands worldwide incorporating rosehip oil into their formulas,” says Kapetanakis.
When first launched rosehip oil, the brand began educating consumers on what a powerful healer this single ingredient is. “Our testimony to the uses of rosehip oil is amazing. We have stories of how this single ingredient has healed skin conditions that we never knew they could repair. This has helped the rose gain the spotlight it deserves again.”
Benefits of rose
There’s no arguing the popularity of the natural, and rosehip oil trends have helped drive growth in rose’s desirability – but when you look at the multiple benefits of this ingredient – it’s a no-brainer choice for brands and consumers alike. To break it down for us, Kapetanakis outlines the key benefits of the rose:
- Antibacterial: Rose is naturally an antibacterial. It can help treat acne and acne-prone skin.
- Anti-inflammatory: Rose oil can help reduce swollen spots or redness on your skin. Its calming properties can also help soothe rosacea and eczema.
- Antioxidants: Rose contains high amounts of vitamin C, a powerful antioxidant. This important vitamin can help protect skin cells from damage, such as from staying out in the sun too long. Some evidence even suggests rose water can help prevent sunburn [but it is not recommended as a substitute for a SPF 50 sunscreen!].
- Moisturising: The natural oils found in roses can help lock moisture into the skin, keeping it feeling smooth. Rose is especially beneficial for those with sensitive skin because the sugars in its petals create a soothing feeling.
- Naturally fragrant: Kosmea includes rose for its delicate aroma in lieu of artificial fragrances.
- Toning: As a natural astringent, rose helps tighten pores and restores suppleness for a glowy complexion. Unlike conventional alcohol-based toners, rose leaves skin feeling smooth and moisturised.
Key differences between rose and rosehip
While rose and rosehip are derived from the same plant, there are subtle differences. Rose products are generally referring to the petals of the rose, while the rosehip is a tiny red fruit that is left when the petals of a wild rose fall off. Despite being taken from different parts of the one plant, rose and rosehip oil work hand-in-hand when used in beauty products. “Rose works beautifully when incorporated in a formula with rosehip oil. Rosehip oil is high in essential fatty acids, vitamin A, and beta-carotene, whereas the rose oil is an astringent full of vitamin C and antioxidants and calming properties,” explains Kapetanakis.
The future of the rose
The rose has real staying power. Just when you think you’ve seen the last of it, this ingredient manages to reinvent itself and come back stronger and more popular than ever. And while we don’t know in what form the rose is set to refresh itself in the future, we do know that whatever the process, it will surely resonate with consumers. Kapetanakis concludes: “I see this trend here to stay as the rose is an eternal symbol of love and youth and it has been around since the Egyptian times. I do think that rose will be used in beauty products for years to come. When you find something good that is so beneficial to the skin, why would you not keep using it in skincare preparations?! It is not going anywhere.”
Article written in partnership with Kosmea. Click here to visit the Kosmea brand listing.
Image: Instagram.com/JasmineDowling