The eyes may be the window to the soul, but they are one of the first parts of the body to reveal the passing of years. Surrounded by the thinnest layer of skin, as well as one of the most expressive aspects of the human form, the eyes have few weapons to defeat the signs of ageing on their lonesome.
It’s for this reason eye creams have become an essential in daily skincare routines, with Clarins head trainer Charlotte Turner saying consumers today continue to have the same complaints of shoppers of yesteryear, eager to target “dark circles, puffiness, wrinkles, [and] loss of firmness.” But increased working hours, responsibilities and – worst of all – screen time, continue to enhance the ageing process for eyes. Says StriVectin’s Ruth Stonier: “[Fighting screen fatigue] is a problem which is a growing concern, and associated with the modern woman of today.”
To combat a growing repertoire of issues surrounding the ageing of eyes, the beauty industry continues to innovate in the sector. BD explores what’s next for the area:
Tech head
As Euromonitor predicted, the rise of devices and technologically focused treatments extends to the eye sector. Says company analyst Nicole Tyrimou: “The rise of devices in skincare, from cleansing to anti-ageing and electronic face masks, has shaken up both the competitive field and innovation in skincare. Beauty companies have been introducing cleansers and lotions that work with the devices and can further enhance their efficacy.”
Alternatives to invasive procedures are being introduced alongside new innovations to target the delicate skin around the eyes. As Turner comments: “[Consumers demand] products that address multiple concerns at once.” Laser treatments continue to arise – those like Thermage Eye Treatment which uses radiofrequency technology to heat the layers of the skin, stimulating existing collagen and promoting new growth without the need for surgery. In-salon treatments look set to continue growing in prominence with consumers eager for immediate results. Says Advanced Cosmeceuticals managing director Catherine Biedermann: “[In-salon treatments will see popularity] because salons have devices to help increase the absorption of active ingredients.”
Complimentary product
Technology has also shaped the applicator field. “An easy to use format” has influenced products this year says Turner, with brands continuing to embrace innovation in order to seek the best results from their formulas in products. Last year Jurlique introduced the Nutri-Define Eye Contour Balm with an applicator that incorporated a silver ball end – ensuring cold and smooth application of the cream and enhancing its results. Other brands have also taken note, including CLINIQUE’s Pep Start release which features a ‘cooling’ tip.
Technological developments have also encouraged innovation in complimentary skincare ranges, with Turner explaining that brands seek to mimic and maintain in-salon procedure results at home: “The increase in popularity of more invasive cosmeceutical treatments for the eye contour has meant that patients are looking for homecare products to help their skin recover from these treatments and soothe initial discomfort.” Stonier agrees, commenting: “As time is often against us, using a targeted and proven range (such as StriVectin), allows you to pamper your skin at home and is a great way to maintain your skin condition.”
Au naturale
Edible ingredients are the latest trend to sweep the beauty industry says Mintel, which has inspired the use of new targeted ingredients with a natural tie. Says category manager Shannon Romanowski: “Consumers are embracing healthy, holistic living, and our research shows that these lifestyle changes are driving the facial skincare and anti-ageing market. In such a saturated marketplace, products featuring natural formulations are standing out to consumers who trust identifiable and natural ingredients.” In a recent study the company found 85 per cent of consumers were interested in using products that incorporate vitamin C in particular – a hero ingredient lauded for its ability to brighten skin and boost collagen production. The Body Shop and Skin Vital remain two of thousands of brands loyal to the production of vitamin C-related eye products.
Plant extracts also remain a favourite. Says Turner: “We prefer to formulate a targeted blend of natural plant extracts to address needs collectively whilst protecting the delicate eye contour from potential sensitivity.” Spirulina has become the ingredient of choice for Ella Baché. The brand’s latest release – SpiruLines Eye Lifting Patches – plumps and enhances the eye area to reduce signs of ageing and tiredness.
Caffeine fix
Caffeine is another hero ingredient of choice in the sector. Says the Dermatology Review, it can: “brighten the eye area and reduce puffiness.” Stonier says the ingredient will maintain its popularity as new ways to use it in formulations are discovered. She says: “Products with new caffeine compounds work on microcirculation and dark pigment under the eyes. StriVectin SD Eye Concentrate for Wrinkles not only contains caffeine, but also NIA-114 technology, a unique, potent, patented and proven delivery system for more effective results.” Swisse’s Argan Anti-Aging Eye Cream incorporates caffeine among its ingredients, as does Garnier’s Skin Naturals Caffeine Roll-On.
