A spritz of scent is a powerful thing - perfume is now so entwined into our beauty regimens it’s hard to imagine a day going by without it. Our obsession with scent makes for very big business indeed - the global fragrance market was predicted by BCC Research to reach $US33.5 billion by 2019. But what notes will be making the big bucks in 2016? BD examines the upcoming fragrance trends for the year ahead:
Oud
The Middle East is acclaimed for its love of fragrance, with ELLE US reporting: “The Emiratis, along with their Persian Gulf neighbors in Saudi Arabia, Oman, Bahrain, and Qatar, are the biggest spenders per capita on luxury perfume in the world, purchasing, according to some sources, a new bottle every two months (compared with the average Westerner, who buys one every six months).”
The region’s penchant for heavy, intoxicating fragrance is beginning to pervade Western nations, with ELLE commenting that Middle Eastern influence is strong and none-the-more evident than in the rising use of oud. “The influence of the modern Middle East has already shifted the course of perfumery. Ten years ago, for example, it's unlikely that even a particularly ardent Western fragrance fan would have heard of the now-ubiquitous oud,” the magazine comments. The pungent resin derived from the South Asian evergreen tree (once infected with fungus) is predicted to be a major ingredient of 2016 fragrances thanks to its ability to layer. GCI Magazine comments: “Returning after a short absence, this note delivers a rich, musty, woody-nutty scent to create a sultry Middle Eastern backdrop to compositions.” Western brands are beginning to trial oud in scents, including now available with the Middle Eastern favourite incorporated.
Flower power
Alongside oud, rose has been used as an ingredient in fragrance since day dot and the floral scent shows no sign of disappearing in 2016. This is largely related to the boost of rose quartz confirmed as this year’s ‘Pantone Color of the Year’, as well as an increased preference for what Cosmetics Design dub “vintage florals." As the quintessential floral fragrance, rose continues to be integrated into both male and female fragrances, favoured for spring’s scent offerings in particular.
GCI Magazine confirmed the enduring popularity of rose, commenting the ingredient will remain relevant to 2016 fragrance offerings. “[Rose will be] making an appearance for the fourth consecutive autumn/winter. Rose is distinguished by its eternal femininity and used to add powdery, fruity or woody notes to a scent.” As touched on by GCI and confirmed by Weber, the enduring appeal of the rose has a lot to do with the key consumer of fragrance - women. Weber believes women will remain at the heart of inspiration for many perfumers around the globe. His predictions for trends in 2016 remain particularly feminine: “Powdery fragrances, reminiscent and comfortable fragrances with woody and soft notes [will be key]. The woman is the center of the attention and feels light!” Modern interpretations of rose include Juicy Couture's and Crabtree & Evelyn .
Alongside rose, Seven Scent has predicted floral cousin freesia will enter fragrance consciousness in 2016. The perfume experts comment: “With florals making a welcome return, delicate freesia is set to have a high profile. Delivering a subtle, citrusy note, its refreshing character is enhanced by a positive woody piquancy.”
Gender-neutral
Gender has been a very hot topic as of late. Re-evaluation of gender rights and construction is moving further and further into the spotlight, with changing standards infiltrating popular culture. Today a less gender-specific approach to design (whether it be fashion, beauty or fragrance) is commonplace, with gender-neutral fragrance predicted to be an area of major growth for 2016. Cosmax national fragrance trainer manager Dimitri Weber comments: “More and more fragrances are gender-neutral. This is the future of the industry.” Euromonitor also cemented the rising status of gender blurring, stating it will be a top consumer trend for 2016.
Specifically, 2016 has already seen the launch of ck2 by Calvin Klein - a widely publicised foray into the gender-neutral category and intended ‘sequel’ to ‘90s unisex hit ‘CK One’. Celebrity scents are also following the gender-neutral trail, including Ariana Grande’s scent Frankie. The New York Times predicts more and more mass-market brands will begin to integrate the gender-neutral in fragrance. “For a new generation of consumers, the traditional notion of gendered fragrances is starting to go a little stale. The days when floral notes were exclusively for women and musks were solely for men are all but gone, and mass-market brands that peddle colognes and perfumes are starting to catch on.”
What exactly does this mean in terms of fragrance? Frank Voelkl - creator of Grande’s Frankie - explained to Style.Mic it sees the blending of what is traditionally ‘masculine’ and ‘feminine’ in scent: "For women's fragrance, the femininity is expressed through flowers and fruits and softer notes. Men's fragrances use more woody notes, as well as leather and musk.” Alongside the emergence of a new category in fragrance, the gender-neutral tag allows for greater experimentation for perfumers. "It allows me, as a perfumer, to go more out of traditional structures, because when you work on a so-called women's or men's fragrance, you have to somewhat stay within a framework that is probably more traditional."
For other industry experts however, such as Agence de Parfum director Nick Smart, perfume is not designated to gender but made so by marketers. "The idea that women should smell of delicate florals and a man of creamy wood is outdated and overruled by the rise of unisex and made-to-share fragrances," Smart comments. He believes a focus on gender-neutral will encourage female consumers to experiment with stronger, traditionally masculine scents. “We are seeing more females wearing strong scents like the cult fragrance collection by Helmut Lang and Romano Ricci’s Gentlewoman, which was crafted specifically as a female scent which wears like a cologne,” he says. Smart also agrees the trend is here for the long-haul, adding, “Gender-neutral fragrances are here to stay with unisex scents featuring prominent notes including florals, citrus, patchouli and vetiver.”
Fragrances that have launched in 2016 include:
Marc Jacobs Splash
David Beckham
ELIZABETH ARDEN
