If you thought the heavy brow has had its hey-day, think again. The New York Fashion Week spring/summer 2013 catwalks demonstrated that this look is not only here to stay, but is bolder than ever. Team that with other popular trends coming out of the Week including dewy skin, natural make-up, pops of colour on the face and earth tones – and it seems NYFW trends are all about minimalist beauty. Top hair trends coming out of the Week include the side part, dual-textured hair, lady-like buns and 90s styling. We take a look at bd's favourite hair, make-up and nail looks from NYFW…
MAKE-UP
M.A.C for Jason Wu
Inspired by Helmut Newton, make-up director Diane Kendal created a pouted look for the Jason Wu show. The face is luminous, with one big pop of colour. The inspiration is Helmut Newton – this really strong, sexy woman with a bold mouth – quite glamorous,” explains Kendal. So that’s why we’ve chosen to go with very strong eyebrows and a very strong mouth.” Eyebrows were square and defined, while the lips graduated from bright neon pink in the centre out to cherry red.
Jason Wu.
Estée Lauder for Derek Lam
Teaming up with Derek Lam for the sixth consecutive year, and creative make-up director Tom Pecheux created fresh spring looks on 30 models for the 2013 runway show. The look is very feminine, very elegant and very discreet,” says Pecheux. Glistening aqua shades, see-through subtle colour and shimmer that reveal little by little. Derek is not a show-off. If you take time to discover his clothes close-up – you are wowed.”
Tom Pecheux for Derek Lam.
Shiseido for Marc by Marc Jacobs
It’s left-over make-up; not perfect,” explains artistic director Dick Page of the scruffy but sexy” look he created on models for the Marc by Marc Jacobs show. To complement the colourful headscarves worn by the girls, Page kept skin simple (no blush or bright lip) and delivered smokey eyes using smudged dark cream liner. I want to see that the make’up looks ‘wrong’ enough before the models walk out onto the runway,” says Page.
Marc by Marc Jacobs.
jane iredale Australia for Ellery
Make-up artist Lottie Stannard created a raw, edgy look with hollowed eyes and contoured cheeks for the Ellery show. The looks created by make-up artist Lottie Stannard for NYFW were beautiful, flawless and complimented the designer’s work with the simplicity of a nude, raw colour palette, soft highlights and shadows and clean lines,” says brand expert Leslie Graham. There were no hard lines or edges on the eyes or face and a wet brow for texture.
Ellery.
HAIR
Wella Professionals for DKNY
It was all about New York cool city girls” at DKNY, with youthful and natural-looking hair that was swept low from a side parting and tucked behind the ear. The DKNY S/S ’13 collection was based on the ultimate DKNY girl’s lifestyle … so it stands to reason that the hair reflects this direction,” says Wella Professionals global creative director Eugene Souleiman. I wanted to create a hairstyle that gave a sense of unity to the look and give a relaxed, lifestyle feeling. I felt it important to give a sense of life and movement to the hair and play on how the light reflects on textures, so I created a subtle multi-textured effect on the hair.”
DKNY.
Batiste for Imitation of Christ
Held at the Bortolami Gallery, hair director David Cruz and his team used Blush dry shampoo to add volume to a range of different hair looks for the models.
TRESemmé for Jenny Packham and Tracy Reese
To complement Jenny Packham's spring 2013 collection, which was inspired by Vegas in the 60s, stylist Jeanie Syfu put a glamorous twist on a soft, feminine ponytail. The look was created using TRESemmé Salon Finish Extra Control Mousse, which was applied to towel-dried hair and blow-dried through. TRESemmé 24 Hour Body Finishing Spray added texture to the hair, which was swept back into a low ponytail, secured at the nape of the neck.
Jenny Packham.
For the Tracy Reese spring 2013 show, Syfu created a tousled bedhead style with a faux undercut effect. Inspired by Rihanna's 80s-inspired textured undercut, the look featured a tight cornrow braid, which snaked diagonally to the nape of the neck, creating the illusion of an undercut.
Tracy Reese.
Wella Professionals for Peter Som
The Downtown cool” hair look at Peter Som was designed to create a contrast to the structured, bold clothing collection. Hair was treated as if it was fabric, with Souleiman referencing the treatment denim goes through as an example of how he approached the hair styling. This look is a hybrid of many influences, from grunge and the 80s, through to modern day cool girls of New York’s East Village,” says Souleiman. It’s all about attitude and strength rather than being pretty. It’s about the confidence that comes with knowing who you are and where you want to be.” Coloured pieces of hair in a mineral and metallic palette were added to the models’ hair to complete the look.
Peter Som.
muk Haircare for Ellery and Christopher Esber
was the major hair sponsor for Australian brands Ellery and Christopher Esber. Leading he team of session stylists for muk was New York stylist Ryan Taniguchi, who created minimalist hairstyles to complement the structured and tailored collections debuted by both designers.
Headlines Hairpieces was the hairpiece sponsor for both shows.
For Ellery's show of structured elegance, oversized jackets and collared shirts, Taniguchi created a rounded ponytail, signifying a casual Australian vibe. To create the style, models' hair was roughly textured with Beach muk Sea Salt Spray and Fat muk Volumiser. Hair was parted naturally down the middle then sectioned at the back to create volume. The ponytail was held in place below the shoulders, creeated a 'roundness' to the finished look.
Ellery.
The Christopher Esber look also revolved around a ponytail, but in a far more structured way. The show featured Esber's signature structured tailoring and had a strong emphasis on high necklines, for which a ponytail was perfectly suited. To create the hairstyles, Taniguchi separated hair into a precise middle part, and secured it into a tight low ponytail. For the finished shiny look, Taniguchi smoothed a few pumps of Hot muk Smoothing Serum over the top of the head and through the ponytail.
Christopher Esber.
NAILS
Sally Hansen for Prabal Gurung
Manicurists created a blood-inspired manicure with Prabal Gurung for Sally Hansen in Angel Bite.
Estée Lauder for Derek Lam
Estée Lauder Pure Color Nail Lacquer in So Vain (launching in March 2013) was used on both fingers and toes to flatter skin tones.
OPI for Jason Wu
OPI manicurists used Suzi Skis in the Pyrenees polish on the models.