In a world where the obsession with youthfulness and celebrity culture is continuously growing, it’s little wonder the trend of skin whitening and brightening has become big business. While a tan is still desired by sections of society, a bigger emphasis is now being placed on having clear, bright skin. Dermatologist Dr Phillip Artemi reveals that studies have found that, given a choice, people would prefer to have white skin than wrinkles as they age. A nice, even-toned complexion counts for a lot,” agrees dermatologist Dr Adrian Lim from the Australasian College of Dermatologists. They’ve done studies on faces and having an even pigmentation can wipe off up to 10-15 years.”
The skin whitening trend
Whitening skin has been a beauty trend in some cultures for centuries, but Australia has begun to catch on in recent times. There are many reasons for this switch away from tan worshipping. In Australia, the rise of skin whitening and brightening is due to awareness of technology to fix pigmentation, as well as a rise in the population of skin types that are more prone to pigmentation,” reveals Cosmetic Physicians Society of Australasia president Dr Gabrielle Caswell.
GMC Cosmedical cosmetic physician and laser surgeon Dr George M Calfas points the rise to how we now have a lot more available information, methods, techniques and technology that have become more affordable and require less down time post-surgery. He also said the increasing migrant population in Australia was a factor. We have a greater mix of ethnic skin types and they bring along their own individual peculiarities, for example, Asians and Indians will have a lot more problem with pigmentation issues,” says Dr Calfas. Another factor influencing the skin whitening and brightening trend is the large amount of sun exposure and therefore sun damage by the baby boomers generation, which has only now begun showing up.
How skin whitening/brightening works
There are a number of beneficial features from getting skin whitened and brightened. This could be improvement in colour – you can take away unwanted pigmentation, you can get rid of deeper sun damage with some of the lasers; it could be looking at improving the skin texture by removing thickened layers or dead skin,” says Dr Calfas.
Removing thickened layers or dead skin allows your skin to be taken back to a healthier layer when skin looks more alive, and has a sheen or glow to it. Lasers target melanin in the pigment cells. This causes the pigment cells to crust off leaving refreshed skin underneath,” explains Northern Sydney Dermatology consultant dermatologist Dr Nina Wines. While lasers remove thickened skin and blasts pigment particles so the body can metabolise them, most active ingredients work by interfering with the pigment manufacturing pathway to reduce the production of pigment, according to Dr Caswell. When skin is brightened, there is more reflection as the process reduces sun-damaged skin (which is usually thickened) and the skin reduces the amount of pigment parcels,” says Dr Caswell. It also slows its pigment making biochemical pathway, which increases reflected light and results in brighter skin.”
Developments in technology and treatments
The more popular a beauty trend is, the more likely you are to find improved products and techniques for it. There’s a much better range of skin products now, particularly in regards to medical grade or prescription products,” says Dr Calfas. He said prescription products now have much more effective agents such as hydroquinoine, kojic acid, azelaic acid and retinoic acid. In addition, there is improved technology so we have a much wider range of lasers. There have been further advancements particularly with the fractional lasers. The advantage of this is that you can have a treatment and go back to work with little down time.” Calfas also revealed that there is now better quality and higher grade chemical peels to peel the skin to a greater depth more safely than in the past. Dr Caswell says the newer chemicals that help block the metabolic pathway that creates pigment includes Idebenone and Lipo-chromin 6 that have an active molecular group.
In terms of development, people are desperately searching for alternatives for hydroquinoine. While laboratory testing and early clinical testing appears to be promising, presently none of them are as reliably effective as hydroquinoine in fighting uneven pigmentation, according to Dr Lim.
At the Australiasian College of Dermatologists’ Annual Scientific Meeting in May this year, dermatologists looked at a number of new treatment options around cosmeceutical and herbal therapies for skin pigmentation. Some of the new therapies we’re investigating involve topical applications of soy, liquorice extract, and paper mulberry,” says Dr Artemi. While very exciting, these treatments are just in the preliminary stage and we need to explore further how we can break down the active ingredient and apply this in the most effective way to achieve the results we’re after in reducing unwanted skin pigmentation.”
Over-the-counter products
The boom in skin whitening treatments and technology is not restricted to clinics, there is constantly news of a new brand branching out into this area of skincare. So how do these over-the-counter products compare to professional treatments and do they deserve a place in our bathroom cabinets? While at-home treatments are not as effective as professional lasers and peels because they are less powerful and produce slower results, they can still improve the complexion significantly. It’s cost effective. A little bit slower, but it works. Obviously if they get prescription grade products they’re faster working because they’re more intense,” says Dr Calfas who says at-home treatments are good for those people who can’t afford to take down time.
However, Dr Caswell says that unless there is only a minimal problem, most over-the-counter products are not strong enough to do the job properly. She also reveals facial skin pigmentation such as melasma and cholasma can only be treated using chemical and fractionated laser. Dr Lim credits over-the-counter products for maintaining treatments, which are a big part of treating pigmentation.
But while the skin whitening and brightening over-the-counter treatments have grown rapidly, this has not had a negative effect on the professional industry. It makes a greater number of the population more aware and tune them into skincare,” says Dr Calfas. If there was just the clinic-based treatments available, a lot of people would be reluctant to go. If they can go and just buy these products over the counter, they’re more likely to give it a go. If the damage is a little deeper and needs more expert help, they will know to seek that.”
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