May 11: Elisabeth King reports on this week's business news

Kendall Jenner tapped as the new face of Modern Muse flanker, boom year for NZ Beauty Expo, new venture for Mark Tucker, and Euromonitor says over-60s by-pass anti-ageing products.

Kendall Jenner tapped as new face of Modern Muse flanker
Kendall Jenner's first outing for Estee Lauder sparked enormous interest from Millennials. In a follow-up move,  plans to use the 19-year-old beauty to recruit a younger demographic to its global blockbuster fragrance - Modern Muse. The original face of the scent, supermodel Arizona Muse, will give way to Jenner in a global ad campaign for a new flanker - Modern Muse Le Rouge - set to launch in the northern hemisphere Autumn. 

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In other major news, the Estée Lauder Group has posted the only positive sales result for a US-based beauty and personal care company this year. Global sales for the third quarter rose one per cent to US$2.58 billion and net earnings jumped 28 per cent to US$272.1 million in contrast to the same period a year earlier. 

CEO Fabrizio Freda fingered strong growth in the UK and emerging markets as strong drivers, strongly backed by luxury fragrance and makeup brands, e-commerce, speciality-multi and freestanding store channels. High-performing brands included Aveda, Michael Kors,  and . Skincare sales were up 4 per cent to US$1.1 billion on the back of new launches such as the Re-Nutriv Ultimate Diamond range and Advanced Night Repair Eye Synchronized Complex II. 

Boom year for NZ Beauty Expo
Launched 13 years ago, NZ Beauty Expo is on track to be bigger than ever says director Simon Gillson. Leading brands such as , Dermalogica and Environ are among the exhibitors and the event is expected to draw over 3000 unique visitors. To be held in Auckland over two days - July 4-5 - the focus of the first evening will be the sought-after NZ Beauty Industry Awards, which recognise the achievements of up-and-comers and seasoned beauty therapists and professionals in the beauty and spa industries. 

Local celeb, Shannon Ryan, has signed on as MC for the night. The bubbly 20-something is best known to Kiwi audiences as the co-presenter of FOUR Live, the weekly Top 40 music video show, and has hosted the finals of New Zealand's Next Top Model, The Block and the Vodaphone New Zealand Music Awards. Six major gongs are up for grabs - NZ Therapist of the Year, NZ Most Promising Therapist, Best Business Model, Best New Business Model, NZ Makeup Artist of the Year and NZ Nail Technician of the Year. 

For the first time the awards will be a collaboration with the New Zealand Association of Registered Beauty Therapists. There's another big change, too, says Gillson. "Instead of a formal black tie dinner, we have organised a glamorous cocktail party event to attract a wider audience. In addition to the awards presentation, guests will  also enjoy two performances by The New Zealand Body Art Trust, the country's finest body painters and dancers". 

Any awards that have been going for over 10 years have to be hitting the mark. "They've certainly come a long way" Gillson. "Beauty therapists and professionals from all over New Zealand enter the awards and the winners use the logo to grow their business.  NZ Beauty Expo has become the place for beauty professionals and brands to network face-to-face". For more information and bookings for the awards night, go to http://nzbeautyawards.com/. Simon Gillson can be contacted at simon@nzbeautyexpo.com

New venture for Mark Tucker
Mark Tucker presided over L'Oréal Paris Australia's fastest expansion period. Under his 15 year leadership, the company entered the rankings of the Top 250 most profitable Australian companies in 2009 with annual revenues of close to $500 million. He obviously picked up a few tips from the L'Oréal Men Expert range because he's launching a new men's luxury skincare brand called HANDSOME. 

The smartly packaged range includes seven products - hand wash, body wash, facial wash, facial moisturiser, shave gel, 2-in-1 shampoo and fragrance. The full range will be available online form June 1 but Tucker has unveiled a pre-launch competition as a teaser. To win one of 10 HANDSOME packs comprising the whole range - valued at $280 - try your luck on http://ha.ndso.me

Over-60s by-pass anti-ageing products says Euromonitor
Over the past few years, several brands have taken aim at skincare for the over-60s, notably Lancôme  Platineum, L'Oreal Paris Re-Perfect and Natio Restore. Little wonder. "Later Lifers"are a huge market. The global population of over-60s reached 912 million in 2014 and will rise to 1.5 billion by 2030 - 18 per cent of the world's population. 

China accounts for over 50 per cent of the world's over-60 population. In Japan, 33 per cent of the population are aged 60-plus. While Germany recently overtook Italy as the European country with the highest percentage of over-60s. 

L'Oreal Paris recently launched a new hair colourant for the over-65s to the media - Excellence Age Perfect - but the shelves aren't teeming with similar products. There's a solid reason,too, says Euromonitor. A large percentage of the over-60 age group use facial and body moisturisers which do not boast any anti-ageing claims. 

Only 35 per cent of respondents in a global survey said they had used anti-ageing products in the 90 days prior to the survey. Euromonitor advises brands to use the prevention/protection approach when targeting the lucrative demographic - the richest older generation in history. Products such as L'Oréal Paris Age Perfect Cell Renewal Night Cream which offer cell renewal and other "age-reversing" claims are the way forward says the researcher. 

Snippets from the wires

  • The boom in prestige haircare innovation shows no sign of slowing. According to Mintel, new premium haircare product launches in the UK increased 29 per cent in 2014. Sales in the sector rose 6 per cent to $770 million last year. Says Charlotte Libby, Senior Beauty and Personal Care Analyst: The prestige segment of the women's haircare market is the primary driver of growth, as women are wanting to spend money on perceived better quality products". 
  • According to iResearch data, Chinese cosmetics sales - at home and abroad - will rise to $143.47 billion by 2017. Increasingly, Chinese tourists are heading to Japan, Korea and Taiwan on beauty buying trips as the currencies of all three countries have dropped by 20% per cent against the US dollar. 
  • US department store heavyweights Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Bloomingdales all operate outlet stores. Macy's is poised to join their ranks with the opening of four outlet stores in New York in the last quarter of the year. To be called Macy's Backstage, discounts will range from 20 per cent to 80 per cent. 
  • Since its launch in 2013,  15 million bottles of Lancome Genifique anti-ageing serum have been sold worldwide. The prestige brand will debut a new ad campaign for the global bestseller in June featuring all four of its ambassadors - Kate Winslet, Penelope Cruz, Lily Collins and Lupita Nyong'o. 
  • Market researchers, Brand Stock, have named Laneige, owned by AmorePacific, as Korea's most valuable cosmetics brand. Out-ranking SK-II and LG's Lacvert to take the top spot, over 800,000 units of its latest product - Two Tone Lip Bar - have been sold since February.