Wellbeing is a word that hadn’t come into our periphery until recent years. Now the concept is a booming industry that has harboured a fleet of brands dedicated to increasing our health and wellbeing both short- and long-term.
This is particularly true of the Southern Hemisphere says expert Corinne Morley. “In the 12 months to March 2016, pharmacy data shows the natural/organic skincare segment grew 21.4 per cent in New Zealand and 26.7 per cent in Australia. This is compared to total skincare which grew 13 per cent and 14.5 per cent respectively,” she comments. Summarises Vicki Engsall of : "the natural category is the fastest growing category in the world and more and more research is going into natural alternatives for active ingredients. [It] has evolved from being lovely natural products that will hydrate and feel nice on the skin to being fierce competitors in the beauty industry."
Why the drive to natural? The consumer is increasingly switched on says Kim Hoffman of . "The need for chemical free products driven by consumer awareness of the possible side-effects, both in food, cosmetics and skin care," she comments. With new hero ingredients introduced to the sector weekly, BD spoke to the experts to discover the latest trends the wellbeing market holds.
The oil spill continues
The facial oil trend is showing no signs of slowing down, particularly formulas of natural and organic origins. Says Morley: “Natural beauty oils are one of the hottest trends in skincare, and with good reason. Many of the oils extracted from seeds, nuts and fruit are beneficial and completely compatible with the skin; they nourish, hydrate, and provide a protective yet invisible barrier which helps prevent moisture loss and guards against the drying effects of the environment. They’ve been used to care for skin for thousands of years and I believe they’ll remain the hero ingredient in top quality natural beauty products.” Engsall continues: "Natural oils will be the key ingredients. Consumers are becoming aware of the benefits of using oil on their skin and oil as a major ingredient in skin care products is really growing."
director of product developing and sourcing Richard L. Pietz agrees, saying the ingredient has now expanded into the formulations of different products within the sector: “Botanical oils have been making a huge impact in organic beauty care in so many different types of products now. Oil-led products that function as cleansers, daily moisturisers, serums to treatment masks,” he says. “Once again, we are reawakening to the powerful efficacy of plant oils which have always been historically used in beauty rituals around the world. Their high level of nutrients deliver results towards health and wellness benefits, which make a big impression upon improving the look and feel of our skin.” But what is the next rosehip when it comes to brand formulations? brand expert Jane Harris believes we will be seeing more of “certified organic Kakadu plum, certified organic pomegranate seed oil and certified organic avocado oil”.
From the inside out
Health from the inside out is also burgeoning – supplements and probiotics that target the cause rather than mask symptoms are becoming a key focus for skincare as well as health concerns. Knowledge that beauty begins in the gut is starting to come to the surface. Pietz comments: “A key micro-trend to watch out for are products that work from the inside out, thus blurring the lines between health routines and skincare regimens. Ingestible products such as supplements and beverages are being integrated into skincare regimens. This segment has grown [by five times in the market] over the last two years.”
Swisse Skincare specialist and product developer Selina Mithen agrees, commenting of the major new ingredients to make waves: “Fermentation of natural ingredients to increase their potency and efficacy on the skin; some examples of this are fermented red ginseng, marine extracts, paw paw, soy extract, etc., but the sky is the limit. Probiotics in skincare will also continue to become more popular, as will naturally derived peptides and advanced botanical extracts.”
Edible ingredients
Products typically found in your pantry (or the health food aisles) are also expected to sit at the forefront of the natural and organic beauty field. Lists Mithen, these will be “extracts based on functional foods like maca, spirulina, chlorella, and quinoa.” Continues Pietz: “Some of the leading ingredients coming to the forefront in beauty care truly are reflective in what’s going on in the organic food markets. Expect to see more offerings and scientific data from nutrient-dense superfoods such as lesser known types of tropical fruits, berries, greens, sea botanicals, mushrooms and root-based vegetables.”
One ingredient in particular taking the organic world by storm is turmeric. Says Patrycja McLaughlin from : “Turmeric is also being recognised for its role in treating hyperpigmentation on the skin. It contains individual phytonutrients that have skin lightening properties, inhibits tyrosinase, effectively blocks melanin synthesis and prevents the formation of ROS free radicals.” Natarscha Lunde from agrees, summarising: “We tend to see the food trends filter into cosmetics and skincare, so expect to see superfood ingredients like matcha, turmeric and pomegranate feature in beauty products.”
Australiana
Botanical ingredients have long been at the core of wellbeing beauty offerings for a reason, with international trainer Kim Hoffman summarising: “Anything plant-based and found naturally in the body such as hyaluronic acid which is a humectant, allows environmental moisture to be drawn to the skin thus keeping the skin hydrated.” Continues botanical chemist Annabelle Personeni, “Plant-based stem cells in skin protect the longevity of skin stem cells to keep all of us looking younger longer, naturally.”
But just which plant species and how they have been utilised have changed over time. Comments founder Theme Rains: “The latest innovations in organic beauty are to be found in superior extraction methods to enhance bio-availability of the multitude of phytonutrients held in botanicals.” Rains believes there will be a “focus on new Australian native extracts” emerging in the marketplace. It’s a theme also embraced by national educator Helen Robb-Lacey, who explains of the brand’s upcoming innovations: “Expect results-based sophisticated formulas. The endota spa Bio-Active Plant Complex made up of Davidson Plum – grown from an Australian native subtropical rainforest tree is rich in vitamins, fruit acids and antioxidants and can be used as an anti-ageing and regenerating agent. Lemon aspen – grown from an Australian native tropical rainforest tree is super rich in antioxidants. Lilly pilly – grown from an Australian native tropical rainforest tree is packed with potent antioxidants and minerals to assist in refreshing, nourishing and protecting the skin.”
Aloe, aloe
Fellow botanical member aloe vera will be stepping outside of the natural medicine realm, emerging as an ever-present ingredient in organic skincare. Rains believes aloe vera is the next big thing for beauty, commenting of the sector’s next trend: “[It will be] aloe vera juice, as it has so many benefits for the skin and also fills the requirement of a liquid in emulsions and surfactants, thus increasing the overall quantity of organic ingredients.” Harris continues: “Consumers can expect loving ingredients this year that will enrich the skin [such as aloe vera]”, with the ingredient also listed by Robb-Lacey as up-and-coming for the beauty business.
