Five years ago serums weren’t even on our periphery - today you will be hard-pressed to find a brand that doesn’t produce its own take on the cult-product, catering to the growing consumer demand. So with brands producing serums in their droves, what is next for the skincare category? BD explores what we can expect from serums.
Skincare saviour
Rather like a superhero, serums have swooped in and promised to alleviate our skins woes. The lightweight moisturiser penetrates into the deeper layers of the skin, helping to deliver a higher concentrate of ingredients more efficiently than a traditional ad hoc cream.
Elizabeth Arden PRO international trainer Sarah Marquez explains of its benefits: “Serums are light in texture and formulated to deliver higher concentrations of active ingredients deeper into the skin, allowing consumers to enhance their current skincare routine and target specific skin concerns.”
But is there a need for both serum and moisturiser in your daily routine? For The Guardian UK journalist Sali Hughes, the answer is yes. “I am frequently asked to explain the difference between a serum and moisturiser. Think of when you feel a bit poorly: serum is the metaphorical Nurofen to help fix your tummy ache, while moisturiser is the nice warm blanket you climb under to recuperate. One is problem-solving, the other is comfy and protective,” she says.
Educational shift
A growing understanding of the importance of nourishing and moisturising properties and advances in technology are key factors behind this popularity boom. Medik8 head of NPD Daniel Isaac says the increased use of serums is an extension of greater skincare regimes being incorporated into day-to-day life. “Consumers are becoming more educated and are making the connection between serums and greater skincare results. More people who want to take their skincare routine to the next level are turning to serums,” he comments.
Clarins head of training Charlotte Turner elaborates: “Women are taking their skincare more seriously than ever, favouring a variety of paramedical treatments over the traditional facial. This has led to the need to achieve and maintain accelerated results with more intensive products such as serums.”
There is also the trend of serums being used alongside in-salon treatments. “We're finding that consumers are increasingly educated and aware of new skincare technology and ingredients. Serums are effective at prolonging and maintaining the effects of treatments. Similarly, a slower economy means that customers are perhaps not spending as much on cosmetic treatments and want the money they spend on skincare to deliver a similarly noticeable result, even if it is something they do daily at home,” says Asap skin products education manager Colleen McCleery.
A vitamin hit
Like any good beauty product, it’s what’s inside that counts. Serums at present are seeing a push of antioxidants and vitamins, answering calls for the brightening phase targeting skincare. Marquez believes: “Some of the most sought after ingredients used in serums today include antioxidants, peptides, retinol, growth factors, alpha and beta hydroxyl acids, and botanicals.”
Isaac says of the latest trends in ingredients: “As always there is a wealth of ingredients being developed for cosmetic serums. At this time, variations of classical ingredients such as vitamins A and C continue to lead the market alongside the completely new ingredients such as synthesised peptides or purified plant extracts.” Turner has a similar view, saying serums at present tend to incorporate: “high intensity blends of peptides, AHA’s, retin A, antioxidants, hyaluronic acid and vitamin C.”
McCleery says her brand also favours a select few ingredients for their properties: “Biomimetic peptide and idebenone are some of the new leading ingredients of asap serums which are delivering great results. All active ingredients in our serums have a number of anti-ageing, protective, brightening and smoothing benefits for a range of skin concerns as well as a general healthy complexion. Resveratrol and niacinamide are both in asap super B complex and deliver very fast results.”
The multi-tasker
For Isaac, the ingredient list included in serums will shortly also be based around creating serums that provide not just one, but a multitude of benefits to the customer. “More and more consumers are demanding products that provide multiple benefits - such as those targeting fine lines/wrinkles as well as age spots. They expect more in the way of these multi-action products with different combinations of results,” he says. Marquez agrees, saying that they want it all: “current consumer demands for products that are multifunctional, clinically-proven and aesthetically elegant!”
McCleery says this will influence serums of the future. The key trend of next year’s innovations? Keeping it simple. “Serums are now more available and popular on the market but incorporating them into a sensible and sustainable skin fitness routine does not have to be complicated,” she says.
Next in line
For Isaac, future focus will be on “further innovations in the relatively newer areas of skincare, such as anti-glycation methods, will continue to be a focus for researchers developing new serums in 2015.” He believes that innovation is the direct result of consumers doing their research: “By improving these classical ingredients through modification or using co-technologies, manufacturers and consumers can develop and use exciting new products while retaining the trust established by skin science that has stood the test of time. Trusting in the efficacy of a cosmetic product or brand is now crucial in product selection, coinciding with the greater awareness of consumer understanding.”
The future will also see a huge push for untouched and exclusive technologies, according to Marquez. “Several exciting, innovative ingredients can currently be found within the Elizabeth Arden PRO serums. The proprietary ingredients include several cutting-edge, patented and patent-pending technologies,” she says.
For Turner, the focus will be on “sculpting and refining formulas that give the skin an enhanced contour… [as well as] brightening and illuminating [the skin] without invasive ingredients and using natural extracts that nurture skin health.”
Serums that BD recommends include:
ACURE
Aromatherapy Associates
AVON
A'Kin
Ahava
Alpha H
asap
Bodyography
Bump eRaiser
Bliss
Clarins
Dr. Hauschka
Elizabeth Arden PRO
Elemis
Eminence Organics
environ
Gernetic
Indeed Labs
Indermica
Jasmin skincare
Jing Qi Shen
Kerstin Florian
Kosmea
Laura Mercier
Lacura Aqua Complete Multi Intensive Serum
La Prairie
L'Occitane
Mesoestetic post-peel 1% retinol concentrate
Medik8
ModelCo
MonoDerma
Medik8
Nutrimetics
NUXE
Paula’s Choice
philosophy
Physicians Formula
Racinne
RubiFresh
Skinov8
Sisley
Soshan
Skinceuticals Retexturing Activator
Synergie Skin
Thalgo
Trilogy
Ultraderm
Wonderstripes
Yes to™ Blueberries Age Refresh Intensive Skin Repair Serum
