All about: AHAs

AHAs are that miracle ingredient currently popping up everywhere... but what are they?

AHA stands for alpha hydroxy acid, an acid that works to exfoliate, moisturise and reduce wrinkles on your skin. Here, BD breaks down the key facts to know about the miracle ingredient.

They have superior exfoliating properties
As a cosmetic ingredient, AHAs are incredibly powerful at sloughing away dead, rough or uneven skin. They work by dissolving the glue-like lipids holding cells together, loosening the sticky bonds that keep old cells clinging to the skin’s surface. Cosmetic manufacturer Jean Haddad told US beauty company Nonie of Beverly Hills that, “When dead cells are decreased, there are fewer cracks and fissures that can lead to irritation – so skin is healthier acting and younger looking.

The peaks and valleys that form surface lines even out, dead cells clogging pores are dissolved, pigment that has built up in surface skin is whisked away and cell renewal is returned to a rate closer to what it was at 30 years of age.”

Not all AHAs work the same
A number of different acids fall under the AHA umbrella, including glycolic, lactic and gluconic acids. Glycolic acid is the smallest molecule so it works the fastest. However speed isn’t the only things to consider when using AHAs. Lactic acid is commonly chosen as the acid of choice, as it doesn’t penetrate the skin as deeply as glycolic.

AHAs are not the same as Retin-A
It’s important to remember that while AHAs remove dead skin cells, they don’t generate new collagen to fill in deep wrinkles like anti-ageing agent Retin-A. For all-round results, a skin care regimen can include both AHAs and Retin-A, however both can cause temporary irritation to the skin, so the skin may need some time to build up tolerance.

Irritation does not equal improvement
As with any beauty product, itchiness, dryness or stinging does not always indicate a product is working – you could be having an adverse reaction. While some stinging while using AHAs is common, discontinue use if the pain becomes regular.